When A Chicago Restaurant Becomes a Work of Culture
There is something curious about the way Americans spend money on beauty. A person who would regard the purchase of a $500 work by an emerging artist as an event requiring research, consultation with a spouse and perhaps a modest spiritual retreat will sit down at a restaurant on Saturday night and spend the same amount on dinner with remarkably little existential distress. The painting would remain on the wall for decades; the dinner will be gone by midnight, with the possible exception of the credit-card charge. Yet we understand the restaurant expenditure almost instinctively. We are not purchasing calories, which would make the economics indefensible. We are purchasing an evening: anticipation, architecture, lighting, music, ceramics, wine, choreography, conversation, service, surprise and, somewhere near the center of this elaborate production, food. Chicago’s best restaurants have understood this for years, which is why the most ambitious among them increasingly resemble cultural...